[Written July 25, 2 PM]

We were up, breakfasted, and on the trail by 8AM, hoping to get a few miles under our belt while it remained cool. Plus, jumbo mozzies seemed to materialize at 7:30. Was the sunscreen we were applying counteracting the bug spray? Seemed like too much of a coincidence to dismiss…

The next few miles were filled with expansive views of the lake and the mountains surrounding it. We moved along well and were a the Burton Creek turnoff, near which we planned our second night, by about 10:30!

With visions of ice cream cones before us we decided to continue on, through a landscape of open Jeffrey and fir, with an understory of boulders and Manzanita. The trail winding through the shade was smoothed and banked by many trail bikes, and sure enough we encountered about a dozen throughout the day.

A gentle steady climb brought us to “Painted Rocks”, which is simply a rocky summit with views down the Truckee River Valley from Squaw Valley northward. A long break and a few chapters for “Ella Enchanted”, along with a trail-enhanced lunch of crackers, jerky, cheese and apple, prepared us for the next stretch.

The next landmark is the “Cinder Cone” which is a rocky bald spot – hardly worth a name at all. Here we stop for another significant break – long enough for a catnap in the shade. Just enough breeze to stifle sweat.

From here on out, it’s all downhill – literally. We should be tasting that ice cream, and hopefully swimming in the lake, by late afternoon.

[10 PM]

Indeed, it was downhill from there. The trail wound around the edge of the flat plateau of the Cinder Cone (or environs – there isn’t really enough ‘there’ there to be sure) with stunning view of Squaw Valley and Alpine Meadows, the meadows below them, peaks behind them marking the start of the Granite Chiefs wilderness. The trail became a morass of rocky shards, so sharp that they sounded like breaking glass as we picked our way through them. We dubbed it the “Tinkling Trail.”

By the time we’d carefully picked our paths down to the car, it was almost 6 o’clock. This section is measured at 19.2 miles (6.7 to Watson Lake, 12.5 to Tahoe City), and although my GPS measurements along the first part of the trail indicated that might be inflated by a mile or two, the last couple of miles of denser forest and boulders caused the GPS to spaz – jumping miles in one direction or other, often right down to the lakeshore (which it estimated at an elevation over 20,000 ft.) as if it too was in a hurry to get down.

First action: shoes off! First stop: grocery store for Sobe, Ice Tea, cherries and Haagen Daas. Then we found a spot in a lakeside campground and waded into the refreshing waters of the lake. Showers, tacos, bed.

I’m especially proud of Deanna and Laine for persevering on what was the longest, roughest, heaviest trail section in decades (which for Laine, sets an all-time record.)

Everyone is in good spirits tonight – as I plan to knock off another section (#8) tomorrow, and the girls will enjoy playing support crew, mixed with plenty of beach time.

All in all, a challenging, breathtaking, unforgettable, and completely successful start to the Tahoe Rim Trail 2006 adventure.

One other lesson: plan for flexibility. That includes planning for unexpected blessings like a shower and a meal out. It might not happen every time, but being ready to take full advantage of it when it does is worth a risk of wasted effort. In the future, I’ll pack an “afterward kit,” to help celebrate a completion in whatever style presents itself.

[Mileage: 11.5 | 19.2]